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Easter recipe: Tordelli lucchesi

What is the Lucchese tordello?

Tordelli Lucchesi, or tordelli alla lucchese, are a traditional Tuscan pasta dish typical of the area around Lucca, Lunigiana, and Viareggio. The name is clearly a variation of the more common tortello, a term widely used across central and northern Italy, which becomes tordello only in the small Tuscan regions mentioned above.

Why are they called tordelli?

Some theories suggest that tordello is a distortion of tortello, possibly influenced by the word “tordo” (thrush), as these stuffed pasta pockets were meant to be plump and rich, just like the bird. However, this remains purely speculative.

What we do know for certain is that the term tordello originated around the 1700s and likely derives from the Latin word “tortum”, meaning “twisted” or “turned”, referring to the action of sealing a dough. This root also gave rise to the word torte, which in medieval cuisine referred to small meat- and vegetable-filled pastries.

By contrast, the term raviolo appears to have originated in Liguria. According to one theory, ravioli was actually the surname of the innkeepers who first created this stuffed pasta.

Tordelli Lucchesi: a traditional Tuscan specialty

Tordelli Lucchesi is one of those regional specialties that remain somewhat niche and are not widely known outside of Tuscany. For this reason, there is no officially registered recipe, and instead, multiple variations exist—practically as many as the families who prepare them.

What’s inside tordelli? The key elements of the filling are the use of mixed meats and a fragrant blend of herbs and spices. The most traditional Tuscan flavors include thyme and rosemary, though parsley, marjoram, black pepper, and nutmeg are also excellent choices.

The most classic way to serve tordelli is with a rich red meat ragù, which can conveniently be prepared in advance.

If you don’t have ragù ready, an alternative is to double the amount of ground meat. After browning it in a pan, set aside half for the filling and continue cooking the remaining portion by adding 300 ml of tomato sauce, a pinch of salt, and letting it simmer slowly over low heat for at least 30-40 minutes.

One unchanging characteristic of tordelli is their crescent shape, which sets them apart from tortelli, which are typically square or rectangular.

If you love stuffed pasta, you might also enjoy Caprese ravioli or seafood-filled pasta variations!

Ingredients

For the pasta

  • 200 g flour
  • 2 eggs

For the filling

  • 200 g ground beef
  • 200 g ground pork
  • 100 g mortadella
  • 200 g stale bread
  • 1 cup meat or vegetable broth
  • 60 g grated Parmigiano Reggiano
  • 1 tbsp chopped fresh parsley
  • 2 sprigs thyme
  • 1 pinch black pepper
  • 1 pinch nutmeg

For the sauce

  • 300 g ragù

How to make Tordelli Lucchesi

1. Prepare the pasta dough

Create a mound with the flour on a work surface and make a well in the center. Crack the eggs into the well and gradually mix them with the flour using a fork. Once fully incorporated, knead the dough by hand, stretching and folding it until it becomes smooth and elastic. Wrap it in plastic film and let it rest in the fridge for 30 minutes.

2. Brown the meat for the filling

In a pan, heat a drizzle of olive oil, add the mixed ground meats and a sprig of thyme. Cook over low heat, stirring with a wooden spoon until the meat is evenly browned.

3. Soften the bread

Place the stale bread in a bowl with the broth and let it soak for about 10 minutes. Then squeeze out the excess liquid and crumble it into a clean bowl.

4. Prepare the filling

Add the cooled cooked meat to the bread, along with the crumbled thyme, chopped mortadella, eggs, grated cheese, black pepper, and nutmeg. Mix well until you get a smooth, uniform mixture. If the filling feels too wet, add more Parmigiano or breadcrumbs.

5. Roll out the dough and fill the tordelli

Take the rested dough and roll it out with a rolling pin to a very thin sheet (no more than 2 mm thick). Cut out circles using a round cutter or a glass. Place a small spoonful of filling in the center of each circle, fold it in half into a crescent shape, and seal the edges with a fork.

6. Cook and serve

Bring a large pot of salted water to a gentle boil (avoid vigorous boiling, as tordelli may break). How long do tortelli lucchesi have to cook? Cook for just a few minutes, then use a slotted spoon to remove them from the water and let them drain in a colander. Serve immediately with warm ragù and enjoy!

Buon appetito!

Cook it al dente: Pasta should be cooked until it’s tender but still has a bit of bite.

Cook it al dente: Pasta should be cooked until it’s tender but still has a bit of bite.